I read and follow the assembly instructions, too. I also use torque wrenches for tightening to ensure things are never too tight, which is one way to cause carbon to fail. But I do not routinely replace components. Summing up, I actually have an steel bicycle that I still ride sometimes. Every time I climb atop its giant front wheel, I wonder if today might be the day its year-old steel handlebars will snap. Carbon is a thread made into a fabric-like material. This material is saturated in resin, a type of glue.
What has yet to be shown is whether or not the cured fabric and resin can be broken down over time. So, I clean it and maintain it and inspect it, and keep riding it. And then, I say go ahead and do what it takes to feel safe and enjoy riding. I guess my concern is with thinner CF tubing used today is that according to some recent discoveries that CF actually goes soft as time goes by which was first reported by Jan Heine of WordPress, which of course the CF biking industry has done everything they could to refute that.
I think most carbon fiber bicycle issues have been for those who buy the lightest stuff they can find and then drive it on the street.
Cracks can be seen. We would recommend that the fork be periodically inspected visually at the drop out area and along the fork legs to look for cracks or depressions in the material.
Any fork that shows signs of cracking should not be ridden and replaced immediately. In general terms, a component made from carbon fiber will far out-last a component made from metal. John Harrington Easton Sports. Sometimes this can probably cause these lower speed wobbles.
I am looking to give my bike a little more resiliency and a smoother ride up front than I currently experience with the OEM Schwinn Paramount straight-blade fork, and at the same time lighten the bike a bit and maybe alleviate some shimmy problems if possible.
And if so, with carbon, aluminum, or steel steerers? In general, fork manufacturers do not specify weight limits. To your second question, you would need to try it. Sometimes, I have cured mild shimmy in a frame by changing out the fork, but many times, it has not worked. As for rake, the steeper the head angle, the less rake you want, and vice versa. Consider 74 degrees or more to be a steep head angle and 72 or less to be a shallow head angle.
As for material of the steering tube, as long as you cut it properly and do not crush it tightening down your stem, I recommend a carbon steering tube. Again, for our big bikes we use forks made by True Temper with an extra thick and extra long carbon steering tube meant for a tandem. See manufacturer answers below. The SUB 3 has a printed weight limit of lbs rider but in testing it is stronger than many forks without limits. The failure mode is not catastrophic.
A broken fork will crack near the crown and allow more movement. The rider will see cracks on the outsides of the crown. The rider can ride home and remove the fork without danger. This failure mode is preferred to forks that can break and cause a wreck. Fork failures are some of the worst crashes that a person could be in. How should someone visually inspect the fork for damage or wear?
Does the inspection change when the steer is alloy? Coffey: No, no change whether the fork is a carbon or alloy steer. Look for cracks in the clear coat, small spider web-like formations on the paint or in the carbon itself. Make a habit of checking the fork every six months.
During the inspection, make sure to take everything off the fork, even the crown rake, if you have the tools. Pantone: Make sure to be thorough with your inspections and check over the whole fork. Regarding alloy steerers, is the bonding between of carbon and alloy durable enough to put up with the demands of years of cyclocross? Wittleder: Yes, we perform tests upon tests to make sure that our forks are built tough. Coffey: Sure, bonded joints are on most carbon bikes, even with alloy.
The types of bonding employed uses glue that bonds to the same strength as the material that they are bonded to. All of the forks must mass the CEN crash and fatigue tests. Will disc brakes fatigue carbon faster? Now that cyclocross bikes are being designed with disc brakes, with full carbon forks, would the braking forces of carbon make the carbon fatigue faster?
What rotor size did you design your fork around? Pantone: Our forks are designed and engineered around disc brake-friendliness. There is very little fatigue to the carbon itself. Wittleder: All carbon has a small amount of flex and the carbon really has no fatigue. Internal damage to frame tubes may not immediately be evident and carbon repairers will use specialist techniques such as ultrasound and X-rays to identify deeper damage.
The carbon fibres used are very strong, but the resin needed to hold them together is potentially susceptible to degradation over time.
Resins used in carbon-fibre composites are heat-sensitive and manufacturers recommend that bikes are not kept in hot environments such as inside cars. UV radiation is another potential cause of degradation of the resin. But carbon frames are routinely painted with UV-resistant lacquers and paints and modern resins are designed to have intrinsic UV and temperature resistance too.
Prolonged exposure to intense sunlight might lower the lifetime of your frame. Cheap Chinese carbon imports: are they worth the risk? Should the UCI weight limit be scrapped? Do we need speed groupsets?
Of more significance to UK riders is the effect of riding on wet roads, particularly in the winter when road spray could contain salt from road gritting.
Sweat dripping onto the frame when riding on a turbo can also be a problem.
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