Though local people knew Zafar was buried somewhere inside the compound of the local cantonment - where he and his family members were confined - they didn't find it until Workers digging for a drain came across a brick structure which turned out to be the former king's grave. It was later renovated with the help of public donations. Compared with his ancestors' grand mausoleums in India, Zafar's tomb is modest.
An arched iron-grill bears his name and title. The ground floor houses the graves of one of his wives, Zinat Mahal, and his grand-daughter, Raunaq Zamani. In a crypt beneath, Zafar's grave is strewn with rose petals and other flowers. A long chandelier hangs above, while paintings of him hang on the walls. There is a mosque next door. The dargah or shrine has become a pilgrimage site for Yangon's Muslim population. When people's wishes are fulfilled they donate money and other things.
Zafar is particularly remembered for his mystical work in Urdu. His ghazals about life and love are famous and often sung or read out in Yangon's mushairas, gatherings at which Urdu poetry is recited. Banned from using pen or paper, he is said to have written in charcoal on the walls that confined him. A few of the poems attributed to him have been reproduced in the mausoleum.
As an emperor, Zafar did not command an army but he became the symbolic head of a revolt which united both Muslims and Hindus. Historians point out that thousands of soldiers from both religions came together to rebel against their British officers in support of restoring Mughal rule.
This year - - is the th anniversary of the uprising but it is barely being marked, whether in India or elsewhere. At a time when nationalism and fundamentalism are on the rise, historians say Zafar's religious tolerance remains relevant to this day.
He may have lost his title and dynasty. It was properly restored after that with financial assistance from India, and lies below the prayer hall. The grave, nine steps down from the prayer hall, is covered by chadars that worshippers bring with them as offering.
Rose petals are strewn over the chadars. Worshippers kneel next to it, touch their heads on the stone for a couple of minutes before moving on. The room where the old graves are is still in use. People sit around the tombs, and pray quietly, their eyes closed in meditation. On the walls are photographs of Zafar with British officials, of his wife and sons.
Below, in a room next to the real grave, are photographs of every Indian and Pakistani leader who have paid a visit to the dargah. Prime Minister Narendra Modi visited the place in Ahmed goes past each photograph pointing out the VIPs and intoning the names. But the Indian side prevailed upon the Myanmar government-appointed management not to accept the money. But, in these troubled times, it seems Myanmar needs Zafar just as much.
Click here to join our channel indianexpress and stay updated with the latest headlines. Nirupama Subramanian Written by Nirupama Subramanian Updated: September 9, pm. The responses instill no confidence: Furrowed brows, patently vague answers, and hesitant finger pointing. Yangon is a wonderfully intriguing city, but not one which has a long list of notable attractions. Aside from the gleaming Shwedagon Pagoda, and a couple of other nice Buddhist temples, there are no sites which stand outs.
It is an even bigger riddle how such an important figure in Indian heritage ended up buried in the basement of a small, modest mosque — not in his hometown Delhi but instead 2, kilometers away in Myanmar. Visiting his mausoleum is the initial step in my determined effort to understand the curious life of Zafar II. My first hope is that I will be welcome there, as some mosques do not allow non-Muslim visitors. There, beneath the mosque, his casket sits on display inside a cramped room, which is sparsely decorated by a few pictures of the Emperor.
Zafar is actually the pen name the Emperor gave himself, as he was a passionate poet. It meant victory, yet his life ended in defeat and humiliation.
There was a battle, followed by an escape attempt, a trial, foreign exile, death behind bars, a demeaning burial, and decades of controversy over the location of his grave.
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