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For a better experience, please enable JavaScript in your browser before proceeding. What do you find is the best metering mode for landscapes? Thread starter NuOne Start date Jan 2, NuOne Active Member. Yes recommended. I'm still exploring metering modes and would like to know what mode folks use for landscapes and architecture shots?
Av or M. Stemmy Always on Super Admin. Neither Av nor manual are metering modes! I use what Canon like to think of as spot metering. For internal shots in mediaeval churches I use centre weighted metering and take a lot of bracketed shots. Using exposure bracketing to take a series of different exposures is a great way to increase your chances of capturing an image with the right exposure.
With bracketing, you can capture a sequence of images with different exposures, resulting in a series of slightly lighter and darker images than normal. Your histogram can be a useful tool for determining if your photo is over or underexposed. A well-exposed landscape that includes a lot of colors will give you a nice curve, rising in the middle and going back down toward the right. However, in many cases, you might prefer a slightly underexposed image since the colors you see will be deeper and richer, so keep this in mind when reading your histogram.
Using a graduated neutral density ND filter is a simple way to capture properly exposed landscapes. ND filters reduce some of the light going into the lens, making them ideal for photographing images that include a bright sky and a darker foreground. How do you ensure that your landscapes are exposed properly? Let us know on Facebook or Twitter! Christina is a part time blogger and full time photography enthusiast living in Southeast Alaska.
She enjoys travel photography and has taken pictures in countries such as Mexico, England, France, and China. She likes sunny days, new lenses and drinking good coffee. The third meter setting is 3D Color Matrix. This setting is recommended in most situations. The camera meters a wide area of the frame and sets exposure according to distribution of brightness, color, distance, and composition for natural settings. This decreases incorrect exposures and nearly ensures that when you press the shutter release, the photograph will record properly, thus capturing the fleeting scene.
Also, if the exposure is overexposed or underexposed, there is minimal effort to correct it since the correct exposure setting is relatively close to the meter reading suggested by the camera. The meter setting in photography is very important not because of creative control, but from a time perspective.
For this reason I use 3D color matrix all the time when photographing. Therefore, not only is the meter setting important to get correct exposures, but it is the most reliable when photographing a new scene for the first time without previous meter readings.
I do find some uses for spot metering however. When I am using special graduated neutral density filters, I find that taking a meter reading of the shaded area and the bright sky at the horizon help me choose what strength of filter to use.
For instance, I have filters that are 1 stop, 2 stop, and 3 stop in strength. I use spot metering exclusively for this method of calculating the strength of light in different zones. For all other purposes, my camera is always set to 3D color matrix. About the Author: This article was written by Stefan Hofer stefanhofer. A creative photography enthusiast.
Join over , photographers of all experience levels who receive our free photography tips and articles to stay current:. My first D just arrive on Tuesday, I am breathtakingly confused at the moment but I will be taking your advise here with the D Colour Matrix.
Great article and photos. Is anyone but me sick to death of long exposure seashore pictures?
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